You already know 2020 was ridiculous. If you read my previous post about New Orleans, you know that in July 2020 it was depressingly empty. There weren’t any bands busking in the French Quarter. There weren’t any tourists there to support them anyway. There was ONE group playing outside Cafe du Monde, but that was it. It was definitely strange.
Veterans of the July 2020 story already know about the otters (side note, that would be a fun question to ask random strangers–“have you heard about the otters?” then walk away; leave them wondering….). Well, it was so much fun I decided let’s go back.
Accommodation was at La Galerie French Quarter this time, on Decatur just off Canal. What a fantastic spot to stay. The staff was incredibly friendly and accommodating, and the 2-room suite was spectacular. A very historic property, with clearly old hardwood floors and quite high ceilings.
Bottom line: this trip was night-and-day difference in terms of people, vibes, and signs of life. Apparently it was spring break for a lot of places, so the Quarter was absolutely teeming with people. I couldn’t have been happier to see this. Businesses were open (and BUSY!), and–most importantly–the musicians and performers were EVERYWHERE. New Orleans is back y’all.
An absolute staple in the French Quarter is Napoleon House. Built in 1794 and enlarged in 1814, it was built originally intending to be a residence for its namesake during his exile. While that plan didn’t come to fruition, it was used as a private residence in the 19th century, and since 1914 has operated as a restaurant. Their Sazerac is fantastic, made with absinthe “as God intended”.
After dinner a walk around the Quarter (a recurring theme during the week–7-10 miles a DAY!) found a nice little courtyard at Pat O’Brien’s for a Hurricane. Unfortunately the crazy-huge ones you see on social media weren’t being made at this time, as the number of people they require present to drink it exceeded the number of people permitted at a table for COVID-related safety. That’s fine with me, because while those may make for a fun social media post, I’m more interested in the contents. And this one was faaaaaantastic. Additionally, on the walk back to the hotel, some of the local artists had hats available for purchase right out on the street. I already had a hat, so I did not opt to purchase one.
Having come from Eastern Standard Time, naturally the first night anywhere yields a (sometimes VERY) early wake-up the following morning. This held true on this trip, but I have to say, 5 AM is a fantastic time to walk around the Quarter. The party crowd has dissipated and is sleeping off the previous night’s debauchery, leaving you free to see things in a light you may not otherwise.
After a quick jaunt around the quarter, we hit the gym our hotel was partnered with (and despite all the walking AND the gym time, I still managed to gain four pounds on this trip). After that, some exploring around the Quarter.
Once again the actual cemetery at St. Louis #1 was still closed to prevent COVID transmission to the residents, but walking tours were happening so that was on the agenda. While our tour wasn’t permitted inside the cemetery, there were some locations we could hold cameras above the wall and get some photos.
After that, it was time for lunch. Bourbon House, at the corner of Bourbon and Iberville, makes a fantastic catfish po’boy! Not to mention that wall of whisk(e)y….
After lunch, it was off to the Garden District, albeit with significantly better weather this time than back in July. That means streetcar rides!!
After exploring and getting some shopping in, it was time for dinner. Well, there’s no place like Commander’s Palace!! An institution in New Orleans since 1893, it’s part of the Brennan’s family (everything they touch turns to gold, basically) and has played host to names like Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, and Jamie Shannon. Currently, Meg Bickford runs the back of house and is turning out absolutely stunning fare. The Duck and Pecan Pie called me like sirens. I chose wisely.
After dinner, the streetcar got us back (more or less) to the hotel. The next day was, once again, OTTER DAY!! Yep, the otter swim was so much fun I figured what the heck, let’s do it again. Some major changes at Barn Hill Preserve, new construction, new additions to the family, and plans for a full-on drive-through safari park! Excited to see them grow and their conservation efforts increase.
The otter swim this time was well over an hour, as our facilitators kinda wanted to avoid getting sucked into doing some manual labor for the construction that was happening (I mean, let’s be honest–would you rather do construction work building a fence, or swim with otters? yeah that’s what I figured). The otters were AWESOME once again and I still haven’t gone through all the video yet (because this time my gopro got EVERYTHING). But I have a few screenshots.
After Otterpalooza, it was time to head back to the French Quarter, change, and head to Muriel’s in Jackson Square for dinner. The balcony was open and a really neat experience, though to maintain “social distancing” the tables were rather small. Despite the great view over Jackson Square, I’d probably opt indoors in the future. The meal itself though…YOWZA. Yet another home run. It’s becoming clear to me that you can’t go wrong in the French Quarter and Garden District for dining. Everything is top notch. (it was dark and outdoors, so flash had to be used…please forgive the atrocious shots)
Next morning found us on a Sunday, and that can only mean one thing in New Orleans–brunch at Brennan’s. You can’t show up looking slovenly though (despite the fact so many do). Take some pride in it. Fellas, get a jacket and wear it. Ladies, getcha hair did.
Brunch was OF COURSE a big winner. Started off with a great spring/summer cocktail called a Perfectly Peared (Aged white rum, St. George spiced pear liqueur, pear puree, lemon) and the Brioche French toast (strawberry and whipped lemon curd), then moved on to Eggs St. Charles (think Benedict but replace the muffin with fresh fried gulf fish and creamed spinach). Finally, I’m fairly certain it’s illegal to have brunch at Brennan’s and *NOT* get Bananas Foster. To complement the dessert, I opted for a pour of William Larue Weller.
Walked around a bit to burn off at least some of the thirty bajillion calories. I found a fancy hat (see above) but didn’t buy it. Starting to have a bit of buyer’s regret but hey. If it’s there next time I’m in town, it was meant to be. If it isn’t….it wasn’t. 🙂 The day then found us touring the Sazerac House once again. Then we kicked it around the French Quarter, and I picked up a little something for the liquor shelves.
After some relaxing it was time to head to dinner and having no reservations, it was time to adventure and find a spot. We found what looked like a great little hole-in-the-wall spot but as with oh so many places in the French Quarter, it has a massive courtyard and while sizeable has a fantastic menu and a bartender who is beyond welcoming and generous. Really a great atmosphere and fun spot if you want some late-night creole cookin.
Next up, another wonderful day of food and drink, and looking good while doing it. Saw an Irish pub and figured hey good spot to grab a bite. Welp….we got a drink at least. About that sign on the wall….
No worries, though, as Crescent City Brewhouse was open and the wait wasn’t too long. And what a fantastic idea it was to head there. Boudin Grilled Cheese and a beer sampler (spoiler alert–they’re all great!!) made it a great lunch.
After that, nothing really planned just taking in the bustle of a once-again busy New Orleans. Later that evening, dinner was at Sylvain. Started off with their cast-iron cornbread (with a spicy cane syrup butter), Glazed short ribs (black garlic and butternut squash), and finished off with the chocolate pot de creme. This *WAS* a small hole-in-the-wall type on Decatur right next to Jackson Square and it was absolutely fantastic.
Woke up the next morning with a craving for chicken and waffles and bottomless mimosas, which meant only one thing….the Original Pierre Maspero’s on the corner of Chartres and St. Louis.
After that, it was time to do some science. The great Sazerac taste test of 2021 was about to begin!! While we didn’t make it to the Roosevelt (the bar there is CALLED the Sazerac) we did try a good range of them at Bourbon House, Bourbon Street Drinkery, and the Carousel Bar at the Monteleone.
While the Carousel Bar didn’t win the tastiest Sazerac of the three, it’s a massive winner in so many other respects. An incredibly fun concept, amazing open space with HUGE windows to people-watch the action on the streets of the French Quarter, and bartenders who know their stuff and have some REALLY delicious stuff available. I scored a pour of Eagle Rare 17 (and learned a very important lesson of “always ask how much the rare stuff costs before you order it”) bringing my BTAC experience to 4 out of 5!
Of course no trip to New Orleans is complete without getting a photo of this magnificent building at the corner of Royal and St Peter.
Final dinner was at Vampire Cafe. Fun little spot with a menu full of puns and references to the culture, but the food itself was, once again, fantastic.
There really is no place on this planet like New Orleans. After July’s trip, I was really nervous for the city. I’m so glad to see that they recovered and are back at it like nothing ever happened. I know I’ll definitely be back…but I’m looking forward to the adventures that lie between now and then!
How many suitcases did you need to bring?
What socks went with the purple jacket?
No to the purple hat. Remember “understated elegance”.
When we went to Brennan’s 30 years ago we had some kind of dessert with the orange flaming done the orange peel. I can’t remember what it was called.