Epic Italian Road Trip 2022 Part 2 – Pompeii

Hello everyone and happy Friday! Being a Friday, that means two things are certain. First:

Additionally, being that it’s Friday, it’s time for another chapter of the Professor’s amazing Italian road trip/Grand Tour. Today, we’re hitting Naples, but unfortunately due to time constraints only one night could be spent there. So we’re really covering the 6+ hours spent at Pompeii (and trust me you could spend three days exploring that incredible location) and the killer hotel view aaaaaaaand knowing me maybe a little food porn.

But first, you’re probably thinking “aw geez fella, how’d you get from Palermo, on an island, AALLLL the way up to Naples on the main peninsula?” And you’d be right to ask that. There’s a night ferry that runs between the two cities. Costs about the same as another night in a hotel, and you don’t have the additional cost of fuel in your car doing the 8-9 hour drive (with a short 15-minute ferry hop) all the way from the “toe of the boot” up to Naples. Plus while you’re sleeping, you’re moving! Excellent!

Only it didn’t QUITE go as smoothly as one would have hoped. But that’s okay, because it’s an adventure! And an adventure needs experiences out of the ordinary. Boarded the ferry in Palermo (almost jumped on the wrong one, up to Genoa, which is about 20 hours and WAY up in the northern area of the country, about 2 hours from Monaco), parked, got upstairs. Found the cabin. Unfancy, but….beats the hell out of some accommodation I’ve had in “austere environments” in the past.

The bar was closed (covid). The restaurant had some beverages though, and there was a sale on chocolate at the gift shop though so….bonus? Average? Satisfactory.

However. We then set sail. All was well until about 11pm, or thereabouts, when Neptune unleashed his wrath upon the passengers and crew.

No seasickness to report, thankfully, just no sleep to report for the most part either as it was pitching and yawing everywhere to the point the beds probably should have had railings installed to prevent falling out.

But….in Napoli the ferry did safely arrive, and while ports typically aren’t terribly scenic, there was a fair amount to be said here.

After a fairly long disembarkation procedure (lots of lorries/semis needing to unload before the rest of us could) the GPS was fired up and the 40-50 minute drive to Pompeii commenced. Upon arrival, Vesuvius stood silent, no real indication of the immense wrath he had unleashed all those years ago.

Important point I’d like to sidebar to make: DO NOT GET YOUR TICKETS ANYWHERE BUT THIS OFFICE OR ON THE OFFICIAL POMPEII WEBSITE. There are LOADS of “official ticket office” on the walk from the primary parking lot to the actual gate (there’s a train station in between with a dozen guys standing out front trying to “guide” you in like the parking lots do in major cities with their flags and flashlights). Walk past all of them, you’ll go through a security checkpoint before you can buy your tickets. They’re selling REAL tickets, just….a lot more expensive than at the actual box office.

Original frescoes. (plaster molds of) Bodies. Vesuvius smiling down. The sheer scale of the city you have no idea is as big as it is. Their own “colosseo” (though it was never called that, we’ll talk more about that when we get to Rome). Dirty frescoes at the brothel (because I wouldn’t dare deprive you of them). Original wagon wheel ruts in the stone roads. MY. ACTUAL. FACE.

I think the proper thing to do right now is just a huge photo dump, because there’s no set path you have to take through the city, there’s no itinerary, there was no guided tour…just an idiot with a ridiculous t-shirt (covered by a jacket except for a few photos, i’m an ass but not a TOTAL ass) wandering around the city for about 6 hours or so. Feel free to click the smaller version to bring up a full size photo (as is fashionable).

(Oh and before anyone asks, no those aren’t real bodies. There never were any real bodies left behind. The ash was so hot it effectively caused instant death and then the ash/pyroclastic flow left “molds” of the victims at the instant of death. Those molds were cast with plaster to preserve them during excavation, which is what we see today. They’re still a very sobering indicator of the terror and despair experienced at these final moments.)

I can totally see myself going back to explore it even more next year. There were some areas blocked off for construction of above-ground viewing areas into some complexes which have always been off-limits, archaeological digs (yes they’re still unearthing a LOT there) so while I feel all the “big spots” for the most part were experienced, there’s still so so so much to see and touch.

BUT….one can only put in so many miles afoot before a rest is called for. Off to the hotel, which was WITHOUT DOUBT probably the best of the trip. And that’s saying a lot because Florence was ridiculous too. Il San Cristoforo, in Ercolano (about halfway between Pompeii and Naples proper). The hotel itself and its grounds are simply stunning:

But I promise you, that photo does not even begin to do justice to the view from the room.

Upon checking in, a bottle of prosecco was waiting, and Francesco even offered a dinner recommendation (Marigliano) with the words “No tourists EVER go here. You have to be local to know this place.” Okay then. Game on.

Exhausted from the day’s extensive walking, back to the hotel for a nap. The next day broke with yet more absolutely staggering scenery.

Also there was a kitty.

One short colazione later, and it was back on the road, up to Rome next. The adventure continues…..